With its dainty glazed private dining rooms all in a row, this 'fabulous' traditional basement restaurant looks rather like a charming old dining car, or perhaps a homely & welcoming station buffet. A very British setting, then, for brief encounters with the likes of six West Mersea rock oysters with shallot vinegar or a supreme of pan-fried turbot with mussel & tarragon sauce. It's generally 'wholesome' but leavened by more exotic dishes such as Oriental spiced duck with chilli noodles or pan-fried goats' cheese, basil & pepper terrine with tomato chutney. Service is 'excellent' in both the main restaurant & the conservatory-like, cheerful upstairs bar.